80 Washington Square East, NYU

Costume Studies

Fashion, Or the Enchanted Spectacle of the Code

January 21 – March 5, 2023

Broadway Windows*

In the 1960s, the post-war baby boom generation reached their teen years and spawned a youth-driven cultural shift dubbed the "Youthquake." This generation rejected the conformist attitudes of their parents and embraced individuality in their fashion choices. Boutiques on London's Carnaby Street offered trendy, affordable pieces that were meant to be worn for a season and then discarded, while hippies in San Francisco’s Haight-Ashbury district repurposed vintage items and drew inspiration from non-Western clothing styles. This set the stage for the individualist attitude of the 1970s, in which fashion influences came from all directions, personal style was celebrated, and the line between high style and street style blurred. 


Labeled the "Me" Decade by American author Tom Wolfe, the 1970s ushered in the postmodern era of the late twentieth century. The signature feature of postmodern fashion was an eclectic mix of references, which sometimes diluted historical and cultural meanings. Postmodernism became the subject of study among philosophers, sociologists and cultural critics, including Jean Baudrillard, who argued that postmodern fashion had strayed so far from its references that it ceased to be meaningful.

Fashion, Or the Enchanting Spectacle of the Code is an exhibition that explores postmodern fashion through the perspective of Baudrillard's 1976 essay of the same name. The exhibition features nine case studies that pair a functional garment alongside contemporary designs that reference it. These pairings demonstrate how clothing has come to symbolize more than just its practical function, and has evolved to reflect psychological, sociological, and political ideas. The case studies invite viewers to examine fashion as a lens into the contemporary zeitgeist and to consider the underlying cultural meanings behind their own fashion choices, which now, more than ever, are tools we use to navigate unusual and stressful times. The exhibition seeks to challenge Baudrillard's claim that fashion is "the goal-less stake of a signification without a message." Instead, it reveals that fashion is a rich source of information about the times in which we live.

Exhibition Credits: Fashion, or the Enchanting Spectacle of the Code is curated by the NYU Costume Studies Masters Candidates: Kate Edelson, Maegan Jenkins, Hofi Man, Katharine Pan, Ashton Sanchez, Olivia Stone, Michelle Tarantina, Emma Vest, and Hua Yang, under the direction of Stephanie Kramer, Research Associate at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute.

*Broadway Windows – 80WSE's satellite space – is a series of five street-level windows located at the corner of Broadway and East 10th Street. The installations can be viewed 24 hours a day, seven days a week.

Image of three mannequins in the exhibition. The mannequin on the left is faced away from the audience and wears a bag of some sort draped over its shoulder. The mannequin on the left is legless, and headless. The mannequin in the middle wears a pink, tulle corset top with flowing sleeves, and a slim light pink skirt. On the right, the mannequin is only a torso and includes a white corset top.
Image of three mannequins in the exhibition. The mannequin on the left is faced away from the audience and wears a bag of some sort draped over its shoulder. The mannequin on the left is legless, and headless. The mannequin in the middle wears a pink, tulle corset top with flowing sleeves, and a slim light pink skirt. On the right, the mannequin is only a torso and includes a white corset top.
Image of two mannequins in the exhibition. On the right side of the image, an ornate fabric is draped and three mannequin heads with hats and masks are mounted on it. In the middle, a mannequin wears a very puffy black coat and black tights. On the right, a mannequin wears a light, white, puffer jacket with its hands on its hips. The mannequin on the right does not have legs.
Image of two mannequins in the exhibition. On the right side of the image, an ornate fabric is draped and three mannequin heads with hats and masks are mounted on it. In the middle, a mannequin wears a very puffy black coat and black tights. On the right, a mannequin wears a light, white, puffer jacket with its hands on its hips. The mannequin on the right does not have legs.
Close-up images of three masks in the exhibition. The first mask on the upper left, is a red and pink crocheted hat with long bunny-like ears and hearts crocheted around the head. There are only two holes for eyes. On the upper left, a mannequin head dons a black ski mask. On the bottom right, a mannequin head wears another crocheted hat and mask shaped like a teapot. The teapot mask is purple, white, pink, red, yellow, and in various hues and includes one large slit for the eyes.
Image of two mannequins in the exhibition. The mannequin on the left wears a black and yellow fire-fighter looking outfit, while the mannequin on the right is draped in brown fabrics. On the very far left, is a white square with exhibition text, but it is illegible from the camera view.
Image of two mannequins in the exhibition. The mannequin on the left wears a black and yellow fire-fighter looking outfit, while the mannequin on the right is draped in brown fabrics. On the very far left, is a white square with exhibition text, but it is illegible from the camera view.
Image of two mannequins in the exhibition. The left mannequin wears a silver shirt and silver pants. The mannequin on the right wears a full silver space-like costume with a silver fabric helmet.
Image of two mannequins in the exhibition. The left mannequin wears a silver shirt and silver pants. The mannequin on the right wears a full silver space-like costume with a silver fabric helmet.
Image of a mannequin in the exhibition wearing a silver space-like suit with a fabric helmet.
Image of two mannequins in the exhibition and two pairs of shoes. On the left, a mannequin wears a grey hood, and nothing else. The mannequin is missing the lower half of the body. Next to this mannequin, another mannequin wears a pink and purple crocheted item around their head and shoulders. In the foreground, through the window, a pair of black sneakers sits on a pedestal next to a pair of white heels with silver spikes along the straps. The image is taken from the street view.
Image of two mannequins in the exhibition and two pairs of shoes. On the left, a mannequin wears a grey hood, and nothing else. The mannequin is missing the lower half of the body. Next to this mannequin, another mannequin wears a pink and purple crocheted item around their head and shoulders. In the foreground, through the window, a pair of black sneakers sits on a pedestal next to a pair of white heels with silver spikes along the straps.
Image of two mannequins in the exhibition and two pairs of shoes. On the left, a mannequin wears a grey hood, and nothing else. The mannequin is missing the lower half of the body. Next to this mannequin, another mannequin wears a pink and purple crocheted item around their head and shoulders. In the foreground, through the window, a pair of black sneakers sits on a pedestal next to a pair of white heels with silver spikes along the straps.
Image of two costumes from the exhibition on mannequins. On the left, a mannequin wears a black wetsuit with red stripes along side the body. It also wears goggles and a swim cap. Next to it, on the right, another mannequin wears an ornate red dress with a red bonnet-like hat. The image is from the street view.
Image of two costumes from the exhibition on mannequins. On the left, a mannequin wears a black wetsuit with red stripes along side the body. It also wears goggles and a swim cap. Next to it, on the right, another mannequin wears an ornate red dress with a red bonnet-like hat.
Image of two costumes from the exhibition on mannequins. On the left, a mannequin wears a black wetsuit with red stripes along side the body. It also wears goggles and a swim cap. Next to it, on the right, another mannequin wears an ornate red dress with a red bonnet-like hat.
Installation view of three exhibition windows from street view.
Installation view of three exhibition windows from street view.
Photos by Carter Seddon.